Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [mikebee] Testing a "Dynamic Belay": Edit Log




jt512


Jan 27, 2011, 6:59 PM

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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21890

Re: [mikebee] Testing a "Dynamic Belay"
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mikebee wrote:
I'd suggest that a good belayer using a GriGri but prepared and able to execute a jump would be able to reduce the impact force far more than a belayer who was aiming to offer a dynamic belay through rope slipping through an ATC. I daresay the GriGri belayer would maintain better control of the rope throughout the process too.

Wrong on both counts. Regarding which technique is capable of decreasing the impact force more, clearly letting rope slide through the belay device is because, with practice, you can let as much rope slide through as you want, and therefore you can decelerate the climber as gradually as you want. Regarding control, when you lower do you let the rope slide through your brake hand, and if so, do you ever lose control of it?

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jan 27, 2011, 7:05 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jt512 () on Jan 27, 2011, 7:02 PM
Post edited by jt512 () on Jan 27, 2011, 7:03 PM
Post edited by jt512 () on Jan 27, 2011, 7:05 PM
Post edited by jt512 () on Jan 27, 2011, 7:05 PM


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