Mar 5, 2011, 7:45 AM
Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Interesting. Do your calculations assume a static belay?
According to that spreadsheet, the only pieces of pro that could reliably hold a factor 2 fall would be Camalots larger than 0.75 and even then, they are only rated to 1 KN more than the 13.04 KN that the pro will be subjected to.
C3's, all Metolius cams and pretty much all nuts only have a max rating of 10 KN.
Edited to add: Of course your anchor should be equalized enough to prevent any one piece from taking all the force. Perhaps a more interesting consideration would be the 12.5 KN (or so) that the individual piece would be subjected to if you redirect off a single piece of the anchor, as I often see people do.
(This post was edited by notapplicable on Mar 5, 2011, 7:50 AM)