Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [spikeddem] Red River Gorge -- Motherlode Accident: Edit Log


Mar 8, 2011, 12:31 PM

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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [spikeddem] Red River Gorge -- Motherlode Accident
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spikeddem wrote:
My belayer has been climbing for ten years (never dropped anyone before this accident) . . .

Years in service can be misleading. There are some climbers who just never get it: from the moment your climber leaves the ground until he says "off belay" your brake hand must be continuously holding the rope. I've seen beginners who get it immediately and guys who've been climbing since the 70s who don't. You have to assess every belayer individually.

A week ago, a climber on the route next to me was standing on a ledge at the fourth bolt of his climb, and I looked over at his belayer (using [?] an ATC), and he was just standing there with his hands on his hips not holding the rope at all. I finally asked him, "Is your partner clipped in up there?" And he goes, "Oh, I guess 'technically' I should keep my hand on the rope." He then put his brake hand back on the rope, so I guess "technically" his partner was back on belay.

Some people just don't get it.


(This post was edited by jt512 on Mar 8, 2011, 1:15 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by jt512 () on Mar 8, 2011, 1:14 PM
Post edited by jt512 () on Mar 8, 2011, 1:15 PM

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