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Climbing Information:
Technique & Training:
Re: [caughtinside] Smearing:
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lena_chita
Moderator
Mar 10, 2011, 7:04 PM
Views: 13375
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: If you can't do a sequence using the holds provided, then either a) the setter sucks, or b) you need to get better. It's that simple. Well I would disagree. How many times have you seen a group of people on a route outdoors climb a route the exact same way?
Sure, people climb differently, indoor and out, but this isn't necessarily contradictory to what camhead is saying.
I think it takes more skill to set a problem that would be V3 both for a 6ft tall person, AND 5ft tall person, for example. But I have seen examples where problems were set in that way, and no smearing was required...
I honestly don't understand why smearing was singled out or thought to be bad in the context of this thread. It is a technique like any other. And it is NOT the frantic scraping of feet against the wall that some people seem to think means smearing...
I have seen some problems set specifically FOR smearing-- simulating a situation where you have a good seam at the junction of a roof and a vertical wall, but no good feet on that vertical wall, and you just have to traverse for a bit, and smear feet. Very much applicable to real-life outdoor situation, and legitimate in gym, too.
(This post was edited by lena_chita on Mar 10, 2011, 7:06 PM)
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Post edited by lena_chita
(Moderator) on Mar 10, 2011, 7:06 PM
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