Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [md3] Get a grip like a Gorilla.: Edit Log


Mar 15, 2011, 4:41 PM

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Registered: Mar 15, 2011
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Re: [md3] Get a grip like a Gorilla.
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Md3 I am relieved there is people out there that are serious about getting better. These first comments are directed to the close minded people on this thread. But for those like md3 the rest is for you guys and if you would like me to relay more you can do, if not Iíll spend my time teaching people that want to improve their skills.

By no means did I mean anyone here is stupid! To do the things that you guys do takes many, many smarts. You are constantly calculating angles, dealing with the laws of physics and gravity, just to name a few things you consider every moment. Not to mention you have to calculate all this in mere seconds, so to me this sport takes quite intelligent, athletic, coordinated, and courageous people. I respect anyone that chooses to become the best at their sport.

However, some of the replies remind me that, as in every sport and every forum, there are some ignorant folks on the line. For the closed minded, I say more power to you and Iíll ignore your drivel. For those with an open mind that may want to be the best they can be I offer my expertise to you. And mojomonkey there is no charge.

As for boring, strength training might be boring sometimes but I would prefer to be bored than to meet St Peter early.

First of all I use the term core because it does incorporate a multitude of areas on your body and this word makes communicating the areas without describing all the areas involves. I donít necessarily like the word either, but many people know exactly what Iím talking about when I use the term.

Second, there is such a thing as muscle memory, kinetic chain, as well as much other very important information I can relate to you if you want me to. If not, no skin of my back.

To start with there are three different types of grip humans have. Rock climbers should be concerned with all three and work all three. Pinch grip: When your thumb is on one side of an object and your fingers are on the other side and the object is pinched between them. Crushing grip: the kind you use for a hand shake or when one uses a hand gripper, or pliers. And claw Grip: the kind you use when opening a big jar.

I have a training session to get to, but here is something to try.

You can do this strength work while watching TV: These two are great for finger strength.

* This one I call ďfinger walkingĒ: Take a hammer in between the tips of your fingers with your hands in a position as if you are clapping your hands in the closed position. The head of the hammer would be facing down. Start either at the head of the hammer or at the end of the handle. Just start walking you fingers down or up the handle keeping the hammer between your fingertips. Do this up and down several times for one set. When that becomes easy, add weight to the hammer head, get a heavier hammer, or just do it with three fingers, or two fingers. Work up to being able to do it with a sledge hammer and you will have world class finger strength.

*Fine pinch work needle: Take a large knitting needle and tape some sort of light weight to the head of the needle. With the weight pointing down working one hand at a time, pinch the needle between your thumb and fingers down by the head. Release your pinch just enough to allow the needle to slip about an inch and catch it in another pinch and so on until you get the end and start again. Work the weight up a little at a time and work to do this with your thumb and single finger pinch with all of your fingers. Donít forget to work both hands.

I got to go! Talk to you next time.
-Grip Coach

Warning: Serious grip work takes time. Be careful if you are not used to real grip work because straining your tendons and ligaments to much can put you out of action for quite awhile. With any exercise I suggest start light and donít over train.

(This post was edited by gripcoach on Mar 15, 2011, 4:47 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by gripcoach () on Mar 15, 2011, 4:47 PM

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