Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: BIG moves and body tension, how to train them.: Edit Log


Mar 16, 2011, 10:36 AM

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Registered: Mar 11, 2011
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BIG moves and body tension, how to train them.
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 What I've found works best for BIG moves and body tension in general is two things.

One, with climbing shoes on, at a gym preferably (or on a system board on a woody, know what that is?) find some easy v2 jug hauls or whatever and alternate different lock off positions with your feet on. Do this, while in a drop knee with smallish footholds, reach as far as you can or to the next hold but don't grab it, count to five, one one thousand, etc, then grab the next hold. Repeat.

Mix it up, next time do it in the froggy position, with both knees spread apart, hold the lockoff position at full extention and count it out.

Next, do the same thing but with only one foot on instead of two feet. Or, do it with underclings, gastons, sidepulls, each different position with hands and feet you lock off in at full extention will train slightly different muscles.

Mix it up, do those three exercises with different overhanging angles.

Smaller foot holds with big hand holds are best for this. The goal isn't to pump out your fingers. Smaller footholds require more body tension.

Please don't flame me for calling it body tension, lol, that's what I call it, the training works.

Risk, this may cause elbow tendonitis if you do it too much. I'd limit it to a max of one hard session per week, do it in conjuntion with triangle push ups to focus on the opposing muscle group, the triceps, etc, low weight high reps. Also, get a light dumbell and work the top of the forearm by resting your forearm on a bench with your wrists/hands hanging over the side and lift the weight all the way down and up, high reps, low weight.

You'll see big gains within a couple of these sessions.

Another thing for big moves/body tension, boulder at the gym with your street shoes on. Purposely, keep your feet on every foothold without letting your feet cut. It takes much more core tension and lockoff power to do this. And, it's kinda fun.

Warm up first.

(This post was edited by flesh on Mar 16, 2011, 11:22 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by flesh () on Mar 16, 2011, 11:22 AM

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