Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [cracklover] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition: Edit Log


Mar 22, 2011, 8:15 PM

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Registered: Nov 8, 2009
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Re: [cracklover] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition
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I got told a friend of a friend story some time back. The guy was preparing the top anchor to clean a route but fucked up really bad and clipped to a utility loop. The utility loop gave out but luckily his belay partner kept control, with bad rope burn.

As far as i know utility loops can bare no such weight. For his partner to get rope burn must have ment he took a fall, meaning he did not clip his rope to the anchor after last bolt (or his belay partner was way slacking). I can only figure he pulled up on the anchor directly clipping a quick draw from his harness and forgetting to clip the other biner from the utility loop to the load baring loop. Hell i don't know, how would this happen?.

Anyway, those are just my assumptions. But i have heard about people using quick draws in these kinds of situations even on today's standards. I thought it was a rule of thumb to use a daisy chain/sling and carabiners for this?. At least then your forced to sit onto the rope at the anchor before setting up. It would seem using quick draws for this role offers too much room to short cut the setup, in a bad way.

(This post was edited by ceebo on Mar 22, 2011, 8:33 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Mar 22, 2011, 8:33 PM

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