Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [sandeld] training suggestions?: Edit Log




jt512


Mar 28, 2011, 4:35 PM

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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [sandeld] training suggestions?
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sandeld wrote:
Why are strength moves easy for me, but skilled moves so difficult?

Why do you think that there are "strength moves" and "skilled moves"? I can assure you that there are women who climb 5.12 but can't do a single pull-up, but could do your hardest "strength moves" (and then some) with ease. Conversely, what makes you think that a climber with well-developed sport-specific strength couldn't power his way through your "skilled moves," if, for some reason, he chose to forgo doing the move more efficiently?

In reply to:
Could it be that I have trained non-specific strength movements for most of my life?

Yeah, so you can pull your way up some easy routes inefficiently. Big deal. What, even, is the point of doing so?

In reply to:
What is the time period before I can give advice? What if I were able to climb 5.11's on my first day? Would that have made my advice more accurate?

Well, you weren't climbing 5.11 your first day. By your own admission, you were climbing 5.6–5.7, which goes to show exactly what your background in weight training was good for.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Mar 28, 2011, 11:33 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jt512 () on Mar 28, 2011, 6:01 PM
Post edited by jt512 () on Mar 28, 2011, 11:33 PM


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