Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [spikeddem] Spikeddem goes west: Edit Log


Apr 8, 2011, 12:33 PM

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Re: [spikeddem] Spikeddem goes west
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On Tuesday I did my first climbs. I ended up doing five different pitches. Two of the pitches I led, and the other three I just top-roped.

After discussing which crag to head to, Lee and I settled on Scarface. I started out with a 5.10a hand crack called Wavy Gravy. I on-sighted it; intimidated by the bulges to which I am rather unaccustomed in my crack climbing career. I definitely found myself climbing slowly, as it had been about a year exactly since I last found myself either climbing trad or climbing crack.

Wavy Gravy from the base.

After this, I top-roped a climb that can be seen in the background of the Wavy Gravy picture, a route called Mantel Illness, which featured a bit of a face climbing, a bit of hand jamming, and a bit of thumb stacking action. After Mantel Illness, I on-sighted a short unnamed 5.9/+ route, which merely said "awkward" in its plaque at the base. Enjoyable, I suppose, but also a bit forgettable due to its brevity.

After these three climbs, it was time for lunch, and also time to chase down some shade. The sunburn had begun. Following lunch, we chased down some shade and met up with some people in the Big Guy area of Scarface. Lee led up a nearby unnamed 10+ crack of thumb stacks. I hung the heck out of it as I learned how to properly thumbstack. After this, despite being tired and sunburned, I decided to climb Big Guy, a 120' 5.11- off-width route which a nearby party had put up for everyone to top-rope. Wow. What an introduction to off-width climbing for me. Made it to the top using legitimate (a.k.a. non-lieback) techniques, but definitely had to sit on the rope a good number of times before finally figuring out how to properly stack my fingers and hands together to fill the void of the crack while jamming my knee in it. I have to admit, OW was actually kind of enjoyable--but, of course, I was top-roping it.

This route marked the end of nice day of climbing, and provided a nice view of just a tiny portion of the Creek to finish off the first day in the Creek.

(This post was edited by spikeddem on Apr 8, 2011, 1:49 PM)
Attachments: wavygravy.jpg (110 KB)
  viewfromscarface.jpg (133 KB)

Edit Log:
Post edited by spikeddem () on Apr 8, 2011, 1:22 PM
Post edited by spikeddem () on Apr 8, 2011, 1:49 PM

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