Forums: Climbing Information: Trip Reports: Re: [spikeddem] Spikeddem goes west: Edit Log


Apr 14, 2011, 3:15 PM

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Re: [spikeddem] Spikeddem goes west
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Last friday I was in the Moab Library, which is where I am again. The following day was overcast and rainy (with a bit of snow even). We ended up having nice climbing days Sunday-Wednesday. Also, Lee and I ended up climbing a lot with two fellas named Matt and Cameron who have been on an extended trip since January, and are just about to head to Yosemite. My body didn't want to climb a fourth day in a row, so here's a report from the three climbing days I've had this week!

Sunday, April 10th, 2011

We had planned on heading to Way Rambo, but after arriving at the base and seeing a group of 13 hiking up, we headed further south for the Pistol Whipped area.

I had plans for a number of climbs at Way Rambo, so I was a bit disappointed in the change of plans, but was able to live with it once I saw Jolly Rancher. This beast (140') of a single pitch climb is dominated mostly by hands, both perfect and cupped, finishes with 20 feet of fingers, and is guarded at the base by a short, but challenging section of thin hands.

140' feet of 5.10 hands, fingers, and even a knee jam

Seriously, this is probably the most rewarding climb I've ever done. I was psyched out by the amount of gear I was brining, the start, and the length (I'm from MN, I climb 30' to 50' at a time, thank you very much).

Me, through the thin hands start, enjoying some perfect hand jams.

From the base of Jolly Rancher, we all saw this:

A boulder, peculiarly perched atop a mud tower, seemed worthy of a picture to me.

Following the group's success on Jolly Rancher, Lee hopped on a impressive looking line, Sig Sauer. This 5.12 finger crack was kinder to Lee than it looked like it would be from the bottom. Tiny feet--hidden at the base--gave him all he needed to get the climb clean. I hangdogged on TR, but did every move. It was definitely a unique experience climbing such a vertical finger crack...thank god there were feet for me (except for the difficult last 8' or so!).

Lee crushing it on Sig Sauer

I finished up the day with a climb called Dusty Trails to Nowhere. Either I was feeling good from Jolly Rancher, or my hands fit this 5.10 crack perfectly, because it was by far the fastest climb I did in the creek, and it felt 5.8 to me. Consisting of perfect hands in a corner for like 40' (the guidebook and MP seem to overestimate a lot of heights at the Creek--60'? Ha, yeah right), this climb was cruiser!

Lee rapping Dusty Trails after our last climb of the day.

(This post was edited by spikeddem on Apr 14, 2011, 3:18 PM)
Attachments: me_JollyR.jpg (116 KB)
  JollyR_empty.jpg (106 KB)
  lee_SigSauer.jpg (45.9 KB)
  DustyTrails_LeeRap.jpg (106 KB)
  JollyR_BalancingBoulder.jpg (124 KB)

Edit Log:
Post edited by spikeddem () on Apr 14, 2011, 3:18 PM

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