Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [ghisino] short recovery between routes/pitches/attemps: Edit Log




rtwilli4


Apr 27, 2011, 9:31 AM

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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867

Re: [ghisino] short recovery between routes/pitches/attemps
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Actually your last statement is getting close to the answer.

Take a climber who can red-point 12a:

He/she will probably have a continuous climbing level of about 9+ or 10a. This means the climber can climb routes at that grade with minimal rest (less than 5 min) for 30 to 45 minutes, or even longer.

This climbers on-sight level is probably around 11a. This will be just a letter grade or two above their Continuous Intensity Repetition (CIR) grade. Your CIR level is the grade at which you can repeat 10 to 15 routes with a decent amount of rest between each route (maybe 15, 20 min).

Obviously you know what a red-point is. The climber may be able to do a 12a in a few tries, maybe more, with 30 to 45 min rest between each attempt.

It sounds like your goal needs to be to get your CIR grade up to the grade that you will be tested at. You won't be doing nearly as many routes as a CIR workout, but you will also have less rest. You should be on-sighting a few letter grades harder than the test.

10a - 6a+
11a - 6c
12a - 7a+

You should also take into account the length of the routes in this specific gym. If it's possible, climb a lot at the gym you will be tested at.

Finally, buy The Self Coached Climber by Dan Hague.


Edited 'cuz I can't spell


(This post was edited by rtwilli4 on Apr 27, 2011, 9:34 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by rtwilli4 () on Apr 27, 2011, 9:34 AM


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