Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Update on fleshes training.: Edit Log


May 23, 2011, 8:34 AM

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Registered: Nov 8, 2009
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Update on fleshes training.
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Well, its been around 3 month or so since i started fleshes training. Just want to give a post of improvement for anybody who gives a shit. I will not mention any ''normal'' climbing done, only that of weighted type or campusing as suggested.

For the first month or so i only campused once per week to allow my self time to adapt to the demands.

Week 1 - 2 inch rail doing doubles. Big muscle group failure (shoulders, biceps) on set 7-8

Week 2 - 2 inch rail doubles. Completed

Week 3 - 3/4 inch rail doubles (3 finger open) Finger failure on set 7

Week 4 - 3/4 inch rail doubles (3 finger open) Completed, just.

I started to feel slight pain of 3 finger campusing so before adding weight i thought it wise to go into taps instead of doubles untill they adapt. Starting on the first rail with both hands, reach up the the 3rd rail with 1 hand, then drop it back down to the first rail. 4 reps of that (2 per hand) 8 sets. I alternated this between weighted climbing every other day.

Session 1 - 3/4 inch rail taps with 10lb. Failure on 6-8 sets.

Session 2 - Weighted bouldering 15lb (pretty much a 4x4 kinda drill). Completed.

Session 3 - 3/4 inch rail taps 10lb. Failure on 8th set

Session 4 - Bouldering 15 lb. Completed

Session 5 - 3/4 inch rail taps 15lb. Failure 8th set. Also added dead hangs as fingers did not feel quite done. 20 lb with 8 sets 8 second duration 3/4 inch rail. Failure on set 7-8.

Session 6 - Bouldering 20 lb. Completed

Session 7 - 3/4 inch rail taps 15 lb completed. Dead hangs 20lb 3/4 inch rail failure 8th set.

Session 8 - Bouldering 20lb. Completed

Session 9 - 3/4 inch rail taps 20lb. Failure on sets 6-8. Dead hangs 20lb, failure on set 7-8.

The weighted improvement is quite obvious, how this will relate to climbing i can not pin point as of yet. I have finally completed a 8a route that had me for a while, along with a 7c. I hope that is due to the above training, as it was FUCKING HARD WORK.

I did notice i took a endurance hit as to be expected, but.. on the other hand i also noticed i can climb hard moves over and over again now, with a little rest ofc.

I am going to drop the weighted bouldering as it felt like it was damaging my movement. In its place i will train endurance instead. Hopefully a good mix of endurance and raw strength training for the next few month will show more obvious results. Or should i say more rounded results.

(This post was edited by ceebo on May 23, 2011, 1:50 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on May 23, 2011, 8:45 AM
Post edited by ceebo () on May 23, 2011, 1:50 PM

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