Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [flesh] Update on fleshes training.: Edit Log


May 25, 2011, 1:43 PM

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Registered: Nov 8, 2009
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Re: [flesh] Update on fleshes training.
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flesh wrote:
find an edge that you can barely hold with one hand in the crimp position and hang off it with all your might as long as you can.... shoot for 3-15 seconds, don't thumb over, just crimp. Do this once a week and you'll be crimping two grades harder outside wihtin a few months, also, you'll probably get injured.

Put both hands on the smallest edge you can in the open position and use only your fingers to move into a crimp position... then back to open then back to crimp... etc. .... this hurts even worse, have fun, do till failure then rest 10 minutes and do it again.

This is what people do who are mutants or not mutants but havent learned yet that this will get them injured.... I potentially have experience with this.

Bad long term game plan.

Currently with 20lb on my back each arm is taking 84 lb. To go into 1 arm none weighted dead hangs, each arm will be taking 147 lb, but i need to increase the rung size from 3/4 inch to just under 2 inch (i done 1 arm hangs in the past).

Imo it felt like the rung was just too big to give greater finger gains over what i am doing now on smaller rungs with weight. The massive extra weight on a single shoulder/elbow joint was very noticeable and not something i could see them being able to sustain with ought injury.

Perhaps what your suggesting is only for those who have reached the point where they have added so much weight the next logical step is 1 arm hangs. I don't think i'm near ready to sustain that intensity just yet. Perhaps when i get to the point of 30lb doubles on 3/4 inch i could start thinking about it.. but that's a long way off yet Frown, that is.. in hope that my fingers can even handle that.

I take it 1 arm crimping is what you use to do?, was it really that massive in gains?.

(This post was edited by ceebo on May 25, 2011, 1:46 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on May 25, 2011, 1:46 PM

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