Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [Agilis] Need advice - Injured right ring finger - Full ROM: Edit Log




onceahardman


May 25, 2011, 3:31 PM

Views: 6640

Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2459

Re: [Agilis] Need advice - Injured right ring finger - Full ROM
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

Agilis wrote:
Thanks for your reply.

No, not insulting at all. Like you said I simply do not know.

Now if light climbing is not the way to go, why do so many sources I've read say that taking long lay offs from climbing can actually do more harm than good. Reason being, the new tissue is not put under any stress and injuring the new tissue once healed will be even easier?

Thanks for your advice and look forward to your reply.

I really can't speak as to why other sources say anything. I'd like to read one or two of these sources, so I can understand better.

In general though, yes, first scar tissue forms, and then this scar tissue needs to be remodeled into a strong, extensible scar that more closely resembles the original tissue. Otherwise it will be weak.

I am of the opinion that for severe injuries, this tissue remodeling needs to be done in a well-controlled fashion, or else you risk re-injury. Start with gentle manual resistance, progress to putty and resistance bands, and finally, begin some easy climbing on comfy holds.

And, learn to use the open grip. Pulley injuries are more frequent when crimping.


(This post was edited by onceahardman on May 25, 2011, 3:34 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by onceahardman () on May 25, 2011, 3:32 PM
Post edited by onceahardman () on May 25, 2011, 3:34 PM


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$18.32 (10% off)
$103.68 (10% off)
$8.96 (10% off)
$4.05 (10% off)