Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [Agilis] Need advice - Injured right ring finger - Full ROM: Edit Log




onceahardman


May 26, 2011, 4:53 AM

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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2459

Re: [Agilis] Need advice - Injured right ring finger - Full ROM
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Agilis wrote:
onceahardman wrote:
Agilis wrote:
Thanks for your reply.

No, not insulting at all. Like you said I simply do not know.

Now if light climbing is not the way to go, why do so many sources I've read say that taking long lay offs from climbing can actually do more harm than good. Reason being, the new tissue is not put under any stress and injuring the new tissue once healed will be even easier?

Thanks for your advice and look forward to your reply.

I really can't speak as to why other sources say anything. I'd like to read one or two of these sources, so I can understand better.

In general though, yes, first scar tissue forms, and then this scar tissue needs to be remodeled into a strong, extensible scar that more closely resembles the original tissue. Otherwise it will be weak.

I am of the opinion that for severe injuries, this tissue remodeling needs to be done in a well-controlled fashion, or else you risk re-injury. Start with gentle manual resistance, progress to putty and resistance bands, and finally, begin some easy climbing on comfy holds.

And, learn to use the open grip. Pulley injuries are more frequent when crimping.

Thank you everyone for your replies and advice, really appreciate it.

The source that first gave me insight is here:
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/...njuries-article.html

This source and another source,
http://www.climbinginjuries.com/page/fingers

Share the same opinion. These links are given so you can read them since you mentioned you were interested in them.

I have adjusted my recovery regimen. It will consist of:

- Pulls ups w/ different grips and push ups
- General exercise
- Plenty of rest
- Sporadic climbing**

**Only climbing I will allow is climbing that allows virtually no stress on my right ringer finger's A4 pulley and will be once a week.

If my doctor thinks otherwise I will take his advice into consideration. It will be tough to not climb but a few months off will be good.

I made your links clicky. I read the McLeod article, and enjoyed it. I don't think it's inconsistent with anything I said above. 1-3 weeks of total rest from climbing (or until the acute inflammatory phase is over), Then start rehabbing, including easier climbs with open grip.

I am of the personal and professional opinion that AROM is more effective at increasing the deep blood flow necessary for healing, and that the "flushing" effect of the Lewis reaction is really more of a subcutaneous effect. I'd like to see a comparative study.

I'll read the other article later. Thanks for supplying them.

PS...I think perhaps I communicated poorly above. When I said they can be 1-6 month injuries, that does not mean no climbing for 6 months. That means you may well have pain for 6 months, or even longer. They can be very stubborn.


(This post was edited by onceahardman on May 26, 2011, 5:08 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by onceahardman () on May 26, 2011, 5:08 AM


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