Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [rtwilli4] Rappel Sling Retrieval Method : Edit Log




MarmotPrince


May 29, 2011, 4:01 AM

Views: 6836

Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 6

Re: [rtwilli4] Rappel Sling Retrieval Method
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rtwilli4 wrote:

Ooooo a free solo climber? Can I have your autograph mister?

Low class 5 dude? Come on. Any self respecting climber does that on a regular basis any time they need to move fast. Don't come on here acting all high and mighty because you've spend a bit of time on an alpine ridge. And Don't give me the whole "I have bigger balls than you, and I know more" bullshit. The only thing that free soloing "backcountry alpine routes at low class five and tremendous exposure" proves is that you can't find partners and that your ego is bigger than mine.

If you had come on here and introduced yourself, and/or made some contributions to the site (since you are probably the most knowledgeable one here, 'cuz you free solo alpine routes), then maybe people would have responded a little better.

Don't change the subject and cling to my words "free solo", which has members of your little tribe seeing red.

Getting better responses? I asked a neutral technical question and it's immediately sorted to the "shit" pile by your highness. Haha, I guess I should get on my knees and wipe my chin in a few threads before begging a simple question to this forum from the self-appointed gatekeepers. Oh yeah, also clearly I don't have friends because I'm going solo on a trip or two.

We can all solo a few feet at a craig with buddies, cell phones and city nearby. It's a little different completing a half mile long alpine climb 20 miles from the next human being, dangling from a loose, dirty chute that has seen 2 ascents in the last 12 months because the peak you're on is obscure but the last one for you to climb in the valley. You're tired from the 15 mile, 5000 foot approach the last day, crummy sleep and the bracing alpine start on the early summer morning. Your cold feet in crampons working your way up the chute, biting into the icy crust that but could easily melt on the descent into the consistency of a slushie. That's the danger and thats the experience, being solo is part of it. I'd like to see you on route and run your mouth about how trivial that is.

Don't talk to me about "climbers saving time" because that's not what a solitary and isolated alpine route is like. Me mentioning free solo was a mistake because this was never about bragging. I'm no sport climber and I don't pretend to have any super technical skills than comfort at soloing low 5.

moose_droppings wrote:
Feed 60m rope around block, rap, pull rope.

Leave pull rope and extra rings at home instead of getting the whole mess stuck at top.

wwalt822 wrote:
Then please post a video of this so we can all see how you are the next Yvon Chouinard.

I haven't rapped off a biner block but I fully understand how it works. I'm pretty sure I understand your sequence of events here but I don't see how it wont actually get caught up in itself

spikeddem wrote:
You did a really bad job of explaining your method, but I think I understand it.

For as much shit as you're talking Marmot, I would expect you to realize that if your sling+large rap ring+small rap ring cluster gets stuck on the pull, you will then have no climbing rope. The reason that the method you linked to is used, is because they can still save the climbing rope even if the cluster gets stuck.

The only reason you seem to be bothering to come up with this method is to avoid bringing along an extra 30 meter of cord, yes? I want to make sure I'm understanding you correctly.

Good point in these posts, and I'll keep it in mind...I can get the rope stuck with all the extra gear hanging at the end. But I've rarely had problems pulling. Most of the rappels are short (30-50 feet) and I'm way above any vegetation of any kind. A biner block is alot larger in bulk than even the my largest rappel ring, naturally, so maybe adding it and some webbing doesn't seem to be a dramatic problem.

There is also one important difference..I free climbed the low grade route up...seriously, unlike many rappels I have the luxury of simply climbing back up and lifting my rope from the top. The only problem with this is if somehow the rope travels off route on the pull and won't loosen with me pulling on it from above. Then I could be screwed. I would like to hear anyone's experiences if they have them.

Yes, the extra cord and rapides (10+) can add up, and could be unneccessary. But here's an analysis: I'd say a stuck rope is 15% likely, and then not being able to free it by climbing up is 10% likely, that's about 1.5% chance of a lost rope, and then I could probably CUT still the loose end away and rappel on that to home. So the risks overall seem pretty small. If anyone has specific knowledge or experience it'd be great to hear them.


(This post was edited by MarmotPrince on May 29, 2011, 4:12 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by MarmotPrince () on May 29, 2011, 4:02 AM
Post edited by MarmotPrince () on May 29, 2011, 4:09 AM
Post edited by MarmotPrince () on May 29, 2011, 4:11 AM
Post edited by MarmotPrince () on May 29, 2011, 4:12 AM


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