Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [ceebo] So, there's a route you want to redpoint...: Edit Log




guangzhou


May 30, 2011, 5:29 PM

Views: 7536

Registered: Sep 26, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [ceebo] So, there's a route you want to redpoint...
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In reply to:
.do you devote an entire day to this one route and getting its sequence down? Or, is your practice on it more spread out, working on it little by little on different days?

What is your strategy(s) for for redpointing a route that is entirely new to you?

In reply to:
Usually it sucks to belay someone hanging all over a route for hours. So the best way to really project is to top rope solo. Then you can spend the whole day on the same route. It goes without saying that you should take into account any other people wanting to climb the same route, and remove your gear for a while if so.

I don't agree. Belaying is a exchange. if two climbing partners are both working a project in the same way, I can see no problem.

I've also been known to go to the local cliff and just to belay a partner who had a project before.

When I was training to do the Regualr North West face of Half dome in a day, in the early 90"s not today, I had apartner who spent a few hours belaying me while I ran laps.

In reply to:
And it of course goes without saying as well, that you should only top rope solo if you are 100% sure what you are doing.

In reply to:

This is utterly lame advice.

Jay

Why is that? < direct question.
Jay, I agree. I think this is fairly lame advice.


(This post was edited by guangzhou on May 31, 2011, 5:18 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by guangzhou () on May 30, 2011, 5:30 PM
Post edited by guangzhou () on May 31, 2011, 5:18 PM


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