Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [Agilis] Need advice - Injured right ring finger - Full ROM: Edit Log


Jun 1, 2011, 4:17 PM

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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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Re: [Agilis] Need advice - Injured right ring finger - Full ROM
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Agilis, I'm glad you went to the specialist.

He seems to have spent a lot of time looking for neurological problems- the hands back-to-back, holding the wrists in flexion sounds like Phalen's Test (for carpal tunnel):

And he also did quite a bit of two-point discrimination testing. These are standard clinical tests for neuropathies, and it's good to have them ruled out.

Sounds like he also manually muscle tested the intrinsic muscles of the hand, but it's hard to tell without having seen what the actual "various positions of the hand" you describe actually were. Intrinsic testing is likely though. (you can google "lumbricals" and "interossei" and see if the tests look familiar).

Climbers certainly develop bony hypertrophy in the fingers as a result of the enormous forces we put on our fingers. This may well be why he thought he felt "arthritis" in your fingers.

Remember that pulley injuries are almost completely unknown outside of the climbing population, and it is entirely possible that even a specialist has never seen this injury. If the strain is minor, the diagnosis will be exceedingly difficult, and maybe impossible with good reliability.

I'm glad you got some more info, though. Thanks for sharing it here, and stay in touch regarding your progress.


There is nothing you describe that sounds like a test that would stress the pulleys...EXCEPT THIS, which you said in the OP:

In reply to:
I took more & longer breaks between sends but soon as I tried to climb anything with crimps or difficult, the pain would be localized to my ring finger, and it was not manageable.

Crimping directly puts strain on pulleys. That, to me, is the best test for pulley injuries. And yours is (or was) positive for reproduction of symptoms.

(This post was edited by onceahardman on Jun 1, 2011, 4:29 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by onceahardman () on Jun 1, 2011, 4:29 PM

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