Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Sticking a Dyno: Edit Log


Jun 2, 2011, 1:09 AM

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Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187

Sticking a Dyno
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At the moment that you stick a dyno, do you pull up a little with your arms (as in a pull-up), allowing a slight 'cushion' for when your weight comes back down?

In other words, do you contract your 'pull-up muscles' in such a way that your ability to stick the dyno does not depend solely on the ability of your fingers to catch your body weight? Rather, your biceps and lats may reduce strain from your fingers at the moment that you attempt to stick it by contracting slightly, so that when your bodyweight comes back down, it doesn't hit your fingers only and it doesn't hit all at once. Perhaps you do this instinctively and subconsciously.

I ask this because I was having problems sticking dynos recently, and it appears that the problem may have been that when I was catching the hold(s), I was not pulling up with my arms at the moment of the catch. I was getting my hands around the hold(s), but I often wouldn't be able to hang on. Today I tried acting, only for the split moment at which I catch the hold, as if I were going to do a pull-up from that hold and this actually seemed to help my fingers hang on.

With this technique, you could even catch the hold at full extension with your arms, but only for the split moment that you grab the hold, you act as if you're going to do a pull-up from the hold you're catching. This provides a cushion when you catch it, which is your contracted muscles, making it much easier to stick the hold than if you were to have simply grabbed the hold then tried to catch it solely with finger strength. Again, you only do this (the 'pretend pull-up muscle contraction') the moment that you catch the hold. In my experience, this may make it easier to stick.

So, my question is, is this the technique you use to stick dynos? If so, please elaborate if you'd like. If not, please share your own technique for sticking dynos.

(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 2, 2011, 1:13 AM)

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Post edited by Learner () on Jun 2, 2011, 1:13 AM

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