Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [spikeddem] So, there's a route you want to redpoint...: Edit Log


Jun 3, 2011, 9:30 AM

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Re: [spikeddem] So, there's a route you want to redpoint...
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spikeddem wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:

With bad weather, I was off the hook for belay duties. But Tommy, being the animal he is, decided to work on the route self belayed with a mini traxion. Nothing like 5.14a friction in rain/snow.

Halfway through the day he let us know that he made a major breakthrough and found a way to get around the 5.14+ crux with some 5.13+. now the route only had 5 5.14 pitches… no problem!!

obviously some RC "experts" know better ...

they probably climb harder than old tommy there ... i mean come on ... 5,14a ... pffft ... only gumbies TR solo to work out the moves for that ...

I'll translate the underlined part for you: usually Tommy worked on the route with his partner belaying him. But when he found himself without a belayer one day, because the weather was really bad, he went to work on his project anyway, on self-belay, and it was a productive session for him.

I do not see a contradiction there, at all. He might have had a breakthrough that day with a belayer, just as easily. This is a long way from saying that rope soloing is the best tactic from redpointing something.

Yes, people can rope solo, and many do. If you are like Stéphane Perron, you climb Free Rider on El Cap solo. Some people just like rope soloing better than climbing with a partner.

But when someone asks "what is the best way to redpoint a climb", the belay method has absolutely nothing to do with it. The suggestion to rope solo it was about as relevant as a suggestion to make sure that his belayer uses a gri-gri, because the climber would be hanging a lot.

If the guy posted something like: 'help, I really want to redpoint this climb, but nobody wants to belay me, what do I do?' then maybe, just maybe, rope soloing would be relevant. With many caveats previously mentioned still applying.
If this doesn't get the point across, it may be time to give up on them.

Only point I'm getting is that people don't rope solo because they don't want to or don't fully understand its benefits?. We are a communal species so climbing alone may not appeal to most. If a persons joy is fully in the climbing alone then i don't see what difference it makes to climb with or with ought somebody.

Add up all the time lost on the rock due to a partner having to call it early for what ever reason it would amount to quite allot, unless you are the one who always calls it early ofc. Plenty of times iv'e sensed my partner is just done and had enough.. so not to be a selfish bastard i leave it at that and head home, quietly frustrated.

Not having to rely on anybody else's time table and being able to climb to your own personal limits of stamina, roped solo or anything of the likes is IMO the best way to work a route that is accessible to do so. If all your partners are just as motivated and can keep up the pace with no conflicting climbing days then... crack on.

(This post was edited by ceebo on Jun 3, 2011, 9:31 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Jun 3, 2011, 9:31 AM

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