cracklover
Jun 3, 2011, 7:10 PM
Views: 6722
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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angry wrote: How about rephrasing the question to something along the lines of "How hard of a route would you try where failure meant leaving gear"
Yeah, that's a good improvement on my question, and one of the chief differences between trad face climbing and sport face climbing.
In reply to: For me, I'll try routes up to about 5.11+ assuming that even if I hang, I'll get to the anchor and leave with as much gear as I started. I've sent 13a trad and 13c sport after absurd amounts of burns. That's not a gap, it's a canyon.
Yeah, from 11+ to 13 is a canyon, for sure.
For me, it's 10+ for the first, and 12+ for the second.
There is a caveat, though, that I just don't really do a lot of dogging on gear. I fall on gear occasionally, but rarely get on a gear route where I'm likely to fall/take repeatedly. In fact, the last time I did that was when I got on that 11 when I was climbing with you at Turkey Rocks. Not my idea of fun, and not very "sporting", IMO.
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Jun 3, 2011, 7:11 PM)
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