Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: UPDATED 8-7-11:Video of Flesh's favorite campusing technique, NO INJURIES, PURE POWA!: Edit Log


Jun 4, 2011, 3:24 PM

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UPDATED 8-7-11:Video of Flesh's favorite campusing technique, NO INJURIES, PURE POWA!
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It's Finally done!

My goal was to put as much weight on my fingers as possible without causing injuries. I wanted to add pure power to my fingers, that's it. Unlike many campusing routines this one doesn't push me even close to my limit in terms or my maximum lockoff or the furthest I can reach. Personally, I think there are better ways to train pull power and body tension than a campus board. Also, this has never been a weakness for me. This workout shouldn't get you very sore after doing it a couple different days anywhere except the finger muscles.

This is what I came up with. I like it better than other campus routines simply because when you do doubles, for that second of impact, you put alot of weight on your fingers. However, you can use a largish size rung because it's still hard to hold. In most cases, the smaller the rung, the more your hand will naturally go into a open crimp or full crimp position in the smallest of rungs. I've had 9 finger injuries from crimping so I wanted to stay away from repetitive power crimping. Also, instead of going to a smaller rung as I've gained power, I've added weight using my adj weight vest. It goes up to 20 pounds and at this point I'm using the smallest rung I can while still remaining almost fully open handed. I do this about 2-4 times a month just depending on a number of things and have seen significant improvement in a controlled enviroment. Also, I've jumped 3 v grades since the end of january. It's hard to say how much of that was due to this workout and how much was due to losing 20lbs but I'd guess the 20 lbs was worth about 2 of the 3 v grades. But who knows. I definately know this pushes my open handed finger strength to the very limit everytime I do it. I am failing long before I'm feeling any sort of pump.

In the beggining of the video, you'll see me using large rungs going up then down... quickly. After I boulder well below my limit to warm up for about 30 minutes... I'll campus without weight on the largest rungs to warm up the campus specific muscles/tendons, etc.

You'll see me using a chunk of block chalk to chalk my fingers just on the first pad which is all that touches the rung. The reason for this is because I've found that when i chalk my whole hand it dries out the gap in the finger nail and causes my fingers to split from repetitive doubles. If you split them bad enough, you won't sleep that night. So just put the chalk on the pad and don't reach into a chalk bag over and over. Plus, if you hold your fingers in a curled position and don't stretch them out throughout the routine you'll be less likely to split them.

I've found through trial and error that it's best to shoot for a minimum of 8 reps and a maximum of 10 reps. If you can't do 8 reps...take away weight or use a larger rung until you can. If you can consistently do 10 reps then add a couple pounds till you're back down to 8.

I like to do 10 minutes rests between because I want to have almost a full recovery between sets and I like to do 6 sets total. I think anything more than that is overkill for pure power. It's nice to have a consistent, controlled enviroment as well. It's so easy as a climber to get stuck in a mindset that you're on a plateau or to convince yourself you're not getting stronger anymore. It's difficult to say this though, as alot of you have found, many times it's just in your head. With this, the rungs always stay the same. The distance between them stays the same. The amount of weight you use can be measured. The rest between sets can be timed, etc. Over the course of time you'll no longer be limited to whether or not your fingers are getting stronger, you'll know. I see improvement in either max weight or max reps almost every time I do this.

When I first came up with this idea in februrary, I could only do a max of 7 reps/no weight on the smaller of the two rungs in this video. In the video, the first set you see me do is without weight and I do 14 reps. My personal best is in this video as well. In one of the sets I do 10 reps with 16lbs in the vest. My previous best was only 8 reps with 16 lbs, two weeks ago.

Since not all of you will be able to start on the smaller rungs, at the very end of the video I included what I suggest you do on the larger rungs starting out. It's in black in white, but basically I climb to one rung below the top to start. Next, I'll campus up on rung to the top the skip two rungs on the way down, go up on rung, skip two down, etc.... by the time your at the bottom you should have completed 8 reps. Once you can do 8 reps, add weight. I went up to adding 30 lbs on this larger rung before I went to a smaller rung. I plan on going up to 30 lbs/12 reps on the rung I'm currently using. After that I'm not sure what i'll do, since I'm already using the smallest rung I can stay open on. Maybe I'll have some custom holds made or start down campusing one handed.

Here's the short version my workout.

-warm up 30 minutes bouldering way below your level taking care never to get very pumped, rest 5 minutes.

-do a warm up campus well below your max either using a larger rung or no weight etc., rest 5 minutes.

SET #1-do a second warm up at maybe 85% your limit. You can do this by either using your smallest rung but with no weight or by using a larger rung with weight.
Take note, every SET is until absolute failure and you better try so hard your guts want to explode or your not trying hard enough! In my video, my first set is the one I start on the smaller rungs but without any weight, I still go until failure, but I don't have any weight on so it's not as hard on my tendons. Rest ten minutes.

Set#2 - In this set I believe I do 10 reps and to warm up my tendons further I do it with a total of ten pounds. Rest ten Minutes.

Set#3- In this set I do 8 reps with about 16lbs. Rest ten minutes.

Set#4- In this set I do 10 reps with 16 lbs, my best so far, rest ten minutes

Set#5- 8 reps, 16lbs, rest ten minutes

Set #6- 10 reps, 10 lbs (I was pretty sure I wouldnt' be able to do 8 reps min with 16 lbs so I lowered weight for last set)

I don't know if this is true but I've been told that if your goal is to build pure power, you don't want to get your arms full of lactic acid because it inhibits your bodies ability to build raw muscle. This workout doesn't build up the lactic acid much because your failing long before the pump sets in and resting long enough between to totally depump. After this workout I don't do any other climbing at all and usually just take one day off after.
The best part? I always know if I'm getting stronger and it never hurts my fingers! PURE POWA lol

(This post was edited by flesh on Sep 23, 2011, 10:11 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by flesh () on Jun 21, 2011, 5:25 PM
Post edited by flesh () on Aug 7, 2011, 11:01 PM
Post edited by flesh () on Aug 7, 2011, 11:03 PM
Post edited by flesh () on Aug 7, 2011, 11:04 PM
Post edited by flesh () on Sep 23, 2011, 10:11 AM

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