Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [jomagam] Sticking a Dyno: Edit Log


Jun 5, 2011, 6:28 AM

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Re: [jomagam] Sticking a Dyno
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Depends allot on the direction of the hold, distance and steepness of the wall to determine the most efficient technique.

With any dyno where the legs are going to swing far out behind it is better to hit such a hold (if the reach is possible) with arms bending in with the upward momentum. This allows you to engage the large upper body muscles to force those hips to stay under resulting in the legs following suite. The purpose of this is to keep a similar positive finger angle on the contact hold that you would get from it if it were to be reached statically.

If the gap is too big and you can only make it straight armed you can still have some control with but mainly only in the legs which is not enough to reduce significant outward swing. At this point the finger position changes from what resembles a half crimp in the arms bent scenario to a open hand type grip in this scenario. With the peak force as the body reaches the end of the swing it puts allot on a finger position people may not be as strong as over half crimp or bar style grips.

Dynos that are out left or right i find are most efficient to hit with arm/s straight. Most of the swing will be going side to side as opposed to directly front to back so it does not effect the positivity of the hold as much.

Also, over shooting is sometimes helpful. If it is a steep overhang you really want to actually do that. Your arms can then go 90 degree with the body (like a mummy ;p) and you can engage some stability from in the core from that position to reduce swing as the legs start to come down and angle of arms goes to normal. I'm sorry but its rather too technical to explain. But if you hit such a hold with arms relatively straight up above your head.. you have little control over stability muscles and are certain to have a significant swing.

(This post was edited by ceebo on Jun 5, 2011, 6:51 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Jun 5, 2011, 6:30 AM
Post edited by ceebo () on Jun 5, 2011, 6:51 AM

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