Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: How to Step Up On a Tiny Sloper?: Edit Log




Learner


Jun 8, 2011, 11:34 PM

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Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187

How to Step Up On a Tiny Sloper?
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I am having a tricky time on the last move of a particular route I want to send. On this move, for a moment, you need to put the majority of your bodyweight on a small foothold (nub) whose surface slopes from the back of the hold to the front (sloper). I need to step up on it while simultaneously traversing from right to left. (The hold I need to grab is up and to the left from this hold.) I get my foot on the hold, it feels secure, then the second I step up to go for that last hold (which would allow me to send the route), my foot slips off the hold. It's as if my shoe and the hold can only support so much pressure, and once that threshold is met it's as if the hold is covered with grease. I've tried this step time and time again, and I just keep slipping.

I haven't been climbing for a long time, and I realize that it is techique with my footwork that is holding me back. I need to discover how to use this type of tiny nub, sloper foothold. The most relevant advice I've found was under the "Smears" section on page 38 of the book "The Self-Coached Climber," which (if we treat a step on a tiny sloper as a smear) advises to keep your heel down to keep maximum surface contact and keep pressure constant. The problem is, I need to step up with this foot in order to reach the final handhold, which automatically raises my heel, so I believe my heel needs to come up as I step up. Further, I haven't found a way to keep pressure constant when I need to step up because when I step up it obviously increases. Consequently, in that moment that I go for the hold, my heel comes up, reducing surface contact, while pressure simultaneously increases. Reduced contact plus increased pressure... I understand why I'm falling there. Now, I'm hoping that you know what type of hold I'm talking about and you have a good technique for stepping up on it.

I realize that you'd have to execute the sequence yourself to give me the best advice you can on this, but this is still worth a shot--maybe someone here has some useful advice...

What is your technique for stepping up on a small ('nub') sloper?
Given the above situation, what is your advice to me?


(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 8, 2011, 11:51 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 8, 2011, 11:35 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 8, 2011, 11:38 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 8, 2011, 11:38 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 8, 2011, 11:42 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 8, 2011, 11:44 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 8, 2011, 11:45 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 8, 2011, 11:45 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 8, 2011, 11:47 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 8, 2011, 11:47 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 8, 2011, 11:51 PM


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