Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [Learner] How to Step Up On a Tiny Sloper?: Edit Log


Jun 9, 2011, 4:11 AM

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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
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Re: [Learner] How to Step Up On a Tiny Sloper?
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Yea, what blueshrimp said.

It's really hard for me to tell you want to do... I wish I could show you. Climbing is all about body position. Try explaining a little better EXACTLY what the move is like. It seems to me that you have a low right food and a good right hand hold. You are high-stepping with your left foot onto this sloper and trying to reach up and left for the next hold? Tell me more. Tell me everything! What kind of rock are you climbing? What's the angle?

Generally your foot pops off of this kind of hold because your body weight is not centered over the hold.

If you are reaching for the handhold at the same time that you are trying to stand on this sloper than maybe it is causing your ass to stick out and right a little. That throws your center of gravity off, so you slide off the hold.

Try focusing ONLY on the foot hold. Get your hips and center of gravity over the hold. Use your left arm for balance like you would if you were walking on a slack line. Draw an imaginary line straight up from the hold (the line should be perpendicular to the ground, no matter what angle of the rock). Then you have to identify your center of gravity. Get that line to go through your center and you'll be standing on the hold. This probably involved rocking your hips over.

Don't hug the rock, but keep your hips directly above the hold. If the rock is lower angle, there will be space between you and the rock. If it is vertical there probably won't be any space at all...

If it's a slabby route, you can try palming/mantleing with either hand to help you raise your center of gravity high enough to get above the foot hold.

Once you're solidly standing on that hold, you should be able to reach the next hold. Send.

Edited to add that I'd need to know more about where your right hand and foot are and what kind of holds they are on to tell you any more.

(This post was edited by rtwilli4 on Jun 9, 2011, 4:13 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by rtwilli4 () on Jun 9, 2011, 4:13 AM

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