Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [notapplicable] How to Step Up On a Tiny Sloper?: Edit Log




ceebo


Jun 9, 2011, 7:23 AM

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Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [notapplicable] How to Step Up On a Tiny Sloper?
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I can relate to this (if i understand your situation correct). The paticular move i remember in this situation was left to right but i guess that does not really matter.

Anyway, what i at least found the best way was to forget normal technique and power through it. I lean back off the wall but arms still slightly bent and then as you already stated used it more like a smear. Instead of trying to go statically though, i done it from low down knee bent with weight planted over that foot and surged through it dynamically.

This meant i had maximum friction on the hold before putting down big force force, and since i was then dynamic i had next to 0 weight on the foot hold when passing the point you seem to be slipping off. After reaching the hand hold it is also difficult to keep friction on such a hold when your heal is facing up and the weight settles on it.

Depending entirely on the hand hold distance you can again sag out a little and try to get more friction on the foot hold. If not their may be the option of a out right smear flat on the wall, it kinda depends how stretched out you are at that point. It does require more finger strength though.. it may not be possible to get away with this if the route is of absolute limit. But in return it is just faster to do this and less likely of slipping.

Their is an option B though, attempt to clean the hold and climb the move in the efficient way.. those holds do tend to have the friction of black ice.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Jun 9, 2011, 7:38 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Jun 9, 2011, 7:33 AM
Post edited by ceebo () on Jun 9, 2011, 7:36 AM
Post edited by ceebo () on Jun 9, 2011, 7:37 AM
Post edited by ceebo () on Jun 9, 2011, 7:38 AM


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