Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [ceebo] Pull ups vs campusing: Edit Log


Jun 9, 2011, 10:59 AM

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Registered: Mar 11, 2011
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Re: [ceebo] Pull ups vs campusing
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ceebo wrote:
So the general feeling im getting here is that provided a person can handle it.. the best gains will be made through building up to 1 arm dead hangs. I assume accompanied with at least some form of upper body work out, like weighted doubles on big rungs?.

And yes rt, i realise their are allot of places to find info on climbing.. that i have done and constantly continue to do. Their are also many conflicts in info, so rc ''can'' be helpful to debate those.

I disagree for the most part ceebo. The essential problem for most anybody with one arm dead hands is that you would be better off in terms of building power and not getting injured doing doubles or weighted doulbles. The dynamic movement allows you to use bigger holds but still put alot of weight on your fingers.

I believe you can get to the v13/v14 range just from using the rung size i use and up to 20-30 lbs of weight. Supposing you we're already at the level, my vote is that you would be better off doing one arm campusing on a bigger open hand hold that you would hanging one handed off of what would have to be a micro hold to create the same amount of weight on your fingers, if you we're at the v13/v14 level already.

I tried one arm campusing on the biggest rung last night but wanst strong enough in the pull muscles to go from one to the next one on the way up.... so what I did was start at the top with one hand and without skipping go down one rung at a time. This was surprisingly hard considering i can hang off the biggest rung with one hand in a dead hang without even trying. The rung is two pads for three fingers and one for pinky, so rather big.

In the future I may start including down campusing on one hand to mix up my routine. I don't think I want to add the muscle necessary to campus one armed on the way up, because it would add unnecessary pull muscle that I believe to be overkill for climbing.

(This post was edited by flesh on Jun 9, 2011, 11:07 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by flesh () on Jun 9, 2011, 11:07 AM

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