Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [chriisu] Clove hitch anchor equalization: Edit Log


Jun 14, 2011, 5:54 AM

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Registered: Mar 8, 2003
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Re: [chriisu] Clove hitch anchor equalization
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As with a normally tied off cordelette, you have a statically equalized system. Everything is fine and dandy until your load shifts 3 degrees to the left.

With any statically equalized system, you run the risk (with relatively high probability) of loading only one or two of the strands. Even in the ideal direction of pull, the loads will be uneven due to stretch, however minimal.

So essentially, as with any statically equalized system, you're relying primarily on redundancy for anchor strength rather than good equalization. In most cases that's fine. What I don't like about this case is that you're essentially using single strands of a spectra sling as each arm of the anchor system. The sling as a loop is about 22kn strong, which means each arm will be ~11kn strong. Add loss to a clove hitch to that, and you're down in the 7-8kn territory.

Now combine that decreased load handling with the poor equalization inherent in a statically equalized system and you've got an anchor that's going to start to fail at relatively small loads.

Is it strong enough? Probably... But why not use a simple, quicker, stronger option like the standard tied off cordelette (for static equalization and great redundancy) or if you insist on using clove hitches, the equalette (for the best possibly equalization with adequate strength and redundancy)? The strength of either of these alternatives should be approximately double your pictured anchor system.

(This post was edited by trenchdigger on Jun 14, 2011, 5:57 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by trenchdigger () on Jun 14, 2011, 5:57 AM

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