Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: ON-SIGHTING: Mental Strategy?: Edit Log




Learner


Jun 14, 2011, 12:31 PM

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Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187

ON-SIGHTING: Mental Strategy?
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What is your mental strategy for on-sighting a route?

This thread is about the psychology of on-sighting. I am asking you to be as perceptive as you can here, in reading yourself and what goes through your head when you're about to attempt to on-sight a route.

For example, I have seen climbers imagine themselves gripping the handholds only, while physically imitating the movements, as if they were clutching the holds they can spot (left, right, left, right). The eyes scan the route from ground up, looking for potential handholds, and as each is spotted, the climber imagines himself/herself clutching the holds one-by-one. While the climber is on the ground imagining this, each hand physically executes each movement in mid-air, being in the exact position and executing the exact grip that would appear to be necessary to utilize that hold at that point in the route. These individuals would focus on what is going to happen with their hands, for the most part ignoring their feet until they actually attempt the route. Apparently they are gambling on the fact that there will be holds for their feet and that they will spot and be able to use them.

Others seem to account for their entire body, planning out what's going to happen with all points of contact and their relative body positions, but only for the first couple of moves. And I have to assume that there are others that actually attempt to execute the entire route in their heads, including all points of contact and body positions, for at least as much of the route as they can see from the ground.

Still others seem to just wing it, thinking one (hand or foot) move at a time as they go along.

So, what goes through your head immediately before you attempt to on-sight a route? Please share as much detail as possible.

(If applicable, how is your on-sighting strategy different for outdoor vs. indoor climbing?)


(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 14, 2011, 3:05 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 12:34 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 12:35 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 12:38 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 12:39 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 1:03 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 3:03 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 3:05 PM


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