Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [healyje] ON-SIGHTING: Mental Strategy?: Edit Log




Learner


Jun 14, 2011, 9:48 PM

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Registered: May 28, 2011
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Re: [healyje] ON-SIGHTING: Mental Strategy?
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healyje wrote:
What makes you think an onsight attempt is somehow different than any other climb or that it requires a 'strategy' of any sort? Personally, I try not to think that much prior to a climb and as little as possible during one.

They will be the same, for the most part. Although effective strategy for onsighting will be effective strategy for any climb, strategy for on-sighting poses additional challenges. On-sighting will require a greater expression of problem-solving skills than a climb you've already attempted, or have recieved beta on. So I agree with you, this is really a question of problem-solving before attempting to climb a route. So any effective strategies contributed to this thread could benefit you whenever you attempt to climb any route. However, we can learn the most about problem-solving by asking about strategy for on-sighting in particular...

As kiwiprincess pointed out, if you're attempting to redpoint, you may already have a good idea what you need to do, you just need to execute. Sometimes you know what you need to do but just can't do it at the time. You may come back later and redpoint it after you've rested, thought it through, gotten stronger, thought through and corrected technique, etc.... For example, you may not be able to make it through the crux because you can't do the particular move that is required. However, in this case you'd already know what you need to do, and have decided it is the best approach. When attempting to on-sight, on the other hand, you are more of a blank slate and need to figure out what move you need to do before you attempt to do it.

It's this 'figuring it out' stage I'm interested in with this thread. Since on-sighting places more demand on this stage than any other method of sending (hangdog, redpoint or flash), we can learn the most about this stage by posing a strategy question involving on-sighting. Hence, even though the answers we get will benefit all of your climbing, we ask about mental strategy for on-sighting instead of any other way to send. The result is that we learn the most about problem-solving before you attempt to climb a route than we would have learned had we posed the question any other way. That works out pretty nicely, don't you think? Wink


(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 14, 2011, 10:00 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 9:49 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 9:50 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 9:52 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 9:53 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 9:53 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 9:55 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 9:57 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 9:58 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 14, 2011, 10:00 PM


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