Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [healyje] Mental Strategy for On-Sighting?: Edit Log


Jun 15, 2011, 12:46 AM

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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
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Re: [healyje] Mental Strategy for On-Sighting?
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healyje wrote:
Ignore the chalk.

and if you don't ignore it, learn to read thumb marks (the white spot left by someone's chalked thumb).

especially on bigger pockets and slots it tells with 99% accuracy if a given hold needs to be taken right or left hand...

less useful on plastic and on tufas.

as for the "problem solving" thing.
you can stop and think about the next sequence in the details only if the route has many rests/shakes.
(obvious strategy tip: if there's a decent pair of holds, stop and look at the following moves)

For a route (or sequence) without many obvious shakes, trying to *think* about it too much only gets you pumped (and when pumped you often make bad decisions. at least, that's me).
So, the other strategy on onsights is never stop right in the middle of a crux, and if you have no sequence, just take a risk and try the first thing that comes at your head : see a white spot? Maybe it's a chalked jug? DYNO to it, quick!

Of course for this second strategy to work well you need a good "climbing instinct".
How to develop it?
Mileage. climb, climb, climb, climb. Routes that are at the highest grade you can climb confortably (depending on the style, knowledge of the route, etc) work best. Try to have a "flowy" style, to eliminate any pause : you don't need to climb as fast a s you can, but to keep moving up, to build a rhythm.

The idea is to automate 90% of each move, eg when you get a sidepull, you should ideally get your feet and at least your body position right without the need for a conscious analysis.

(eg : if you go running on a trail in the woods, do you need to "think" that much about obstacles suck as rocks, tree roots, etc? When you walk in the street, do you think about every step you take?)

(see adam ondra 8c+ os video.
No way he has a sequence from the ground on such a long route. But he keeps climbing rather fast. Only possible because a large part of what he's doing is automated.
He's been climbing for years already, mostly at the best age for such "automation" to occur...pre-adolescence...)

(This post was edited by ghisino on Jun 15, 2011, 1:23 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ghisino () on Jun 15, 2011, 1:23 AM

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