Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [healyje] ON-SIGHTING: Mental Strategy?: Edit Log


Jun 15, 2011, 7:18 AM

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Registered: Oct 21, 2009
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Re: [healyje] ON-SIGHTING: Mental Strategy?
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healyje wrote:
What makes you think an onsight attempt is somehow different than any other climb or that it requires a 'strategy' of any sort? Personally, I try not to think that much prior to a climb and as little as possible during one.

To me an onsight (or flash for that matter) is way different, and I mentally tell myself "one SHOT". This often gets me up the hardest section and to the anchor.

Hard redpoints are a different beast entirely...

Kind of like Sharma and FRFM, some of the 5.13s I've done have been real mental-slugfests. Especially the ones with heartbreaker cruxes above the last bolt or hard cracks with cruxes right at the top. I have had to almost get in the mindset of "I'll just go up and try to refine some moves" and then surprise myself with a send. The last 13 I did I was technically "warming up" when my partner called up "dood, looking strong, just keep GOING!!" Thanks, Junior!

Your problem with the route is more mental?
Sharma: Yes, itís a mental problem. After 30 falls on the same and last move, itís a real head fuckÖ Itís not like falling in the middle. When you fall, you have made all the effort of doing the other moves of the entire route.

I understand trying to be "present" and "flow" and "not thinking" but a lot of times, if you are really pushing your limits, it's inevitable at least for me...

(This post was edited by jape on Jun 15, 2011, 7:20 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by jape () on Jun 15, 2011, 7:20 AM

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