Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [spikeddem] Importance of fast twitch?: Edit Log


Jun 19, 2011, 11:36 AM

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Registered: Nov 8, 2009
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Re: [spikeddem] Importance of fast twitch?
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spikeddem wrote:
ceebo wrote:
After trying big rungs a few times they do not give the same gains that i am making from the 3/4 inch in terms of finger strength. However, you are doing doubles where as im still doing taps and ladders.

How're you quantifying your finger strength gains? If it's by watching how many sets/reps you can complete for this training method, how're you controlling your experiment for improvements in technique?

It may (may!) be more accurate to ignore the first two or three weeks of the training (perhaps even a month), during which time you're putting together better technique for it. An activity like campusing rungs has much less technique available to be learned. Therefore, it seems logical that one would reach the point where muscular gains outpace technique gains much more quickly than actually climbing.

During the first few weeks, I think your body would still be making gains in places other than your fingers (technique, tension, etc), and since your goal is to measure finger strength while attempting to control for other gains, you might want to perhaps throw out the first few weeks.

Perhaps you're already doing this.

You've gone into this with the idea that you're going to be flamed. I'm not flaming you. I'm curious.

Well, for me the concern was what failed first (both using 20 lb). With 3/4 inch my fingers start to reach failure.. then i just fall off. Although i do not think my upper body is far behind at that point. I'm doing taps to the 3rd rail 6 reps per set.

With doubles on the bigger rungs my fingers do not feel close to failure but my upper muscles do until again, i fall off. Also it is worth noting that i was able to increase the reps dramatically given the fact my fingers had less load. Since it feels far easier on my fingers i do question if they would be exposed to raw strength gains.. or if they would actually be making some mid/high form of endurance gains (that would also explain allot). Clearly the upper muscles had plenty more time to recruit what ever it is their able to recruit.

Edit - Just to make this all clear.. im just trying to figure out if im putting too much emphasis on maximum finger strength gains. Right now it feels almost like a step back to use those bigger rungs.. but clearly im missing some other huge gains that are made from that. As flesh has shown. Im just curious what exactly they are.

(This post was edited by ceebo on Jun 19, 2011, 12:03 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Jun 19, 2011, 12:03 PM

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