Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [ghisino] Importance of fast twitch?: Edit Log




ceebo


Jun 20, 2011, 9:25 AM

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Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [ghisino] Importance of fast twitch?
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ghisino wrote:
ceebo wrote:
im just trying to figure out if im putting too much emphasis on maximum finger strength gains.

what are the objectives you train for in the short span (0-6 months)?
Any specific routes/boulders?
Grades, styles?
Any incoming trips, projects, competitions, etc?
Are these goals truly motivating? Challenging, but realistic? Limited in number and not conflicting with each other?

if your objectives are well formulated squeeze your brain and you'll have the answer...
(of course, if flesh is a friend of yours who actually knows you and your objectives very well, he can give an informed advice on this matter)

(and of course smaller rungs are for fingers and doubles on bigger rungs are for big muscles and coordination : jus ask yourself what you need the most...)




i don't know, for the sake of discussion...
your question sounds like someone who trains for the sake of training (good, training is fun in a way!) or someone who trains to "get better at climbing" without a clear idea of what "better" means for you.

I'm very critical of the second case. I see the desire to to improve at something without being able to define what improvement means in the details as the sign of one (or more) of the following cases:
-very simply, lack of goal-setting skills, or overlooking the importance of goal-setting.
-lack of a genuine passion fo the activity where the improvement is desired. The passion is there for "improvement", rather than for climbing or whatever other activity it is referred to.
-lack of personality. someone who waits for others to set trends, expectations, standards he/she needs to conform to.

Not quite sure why personal goals or motivation has anything to do with this.

I do hope fast twitch is not that important because if this is true ''The problem is that fast and superfast twitch fibers can be changed into slow twitch fibers by doing endurance training. But once they change, they don't change back.'' then allot of us are fucked..

Or is that why doubles are so good?.. so you can build mass and then recruit it to fast twitch?.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Jun 20, 2011, 9:30 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Jun 20, 2011, 9:30 AM


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