Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [ceebo] Importance of fast twitch?: Edit Log


Jun 20, 2011, 2:36 PM

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Registered: May 28, 2011
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Re: [ceebo] Importance of fast twitch?
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ceebo wrote:
ghisino wrote:
ceebo wrote:
im just trying to figure out if im putting too much emphasis on maximum finger strength gains.

what are the objectives you train for in the short span (0-6 months)?
Any specific routes/boulders?
Grades, styles?
Any incoming trips, projects, competitions, etc?
Are these goals truly motivating? Challenging, but realistic? Limited in number and not conflicting with each other?

if your objectives are well formulated squeeze your brain and you'll have the answer...
(of course, if flesh is a friend of yours who actually knows you and your objectives very well, he can give an informed advice on this matter)

(and of course smaller rungs are for fingers and doubles on bigger rungs are for big muscles and coordination : jus ask yourself what you need the most...)

i don't know, for the sake of discussion...
your question sounds like someone who trains for the sake of training (good, training is fun in a way!) or someone who trains to "get better at climbing" without a clear idea of what "better" means for you.

I'm very critical of the second case. I see the desire to to improve at something without being able to define what improvement means in the details as the sign of one (or more) of the following cases:
-very simply, lack of goal-setting skills, or overlooking the importance of goal-setting.
-lack of a genuine passion fo the activity where the improvement is desired. The passion is there for "improvement", rather than for climbing or whatever other activity it is referred to.
-lack of personality. someone who waits for others to set trends, expectations, standards he/she needs to conform to.

Not quite sure why personal goals or motivation has anything to do with this.

I do hope fast twitch is not that important because if this is true ''The problem is that fast and superfast twitch fibers can be changed into slow twitch fibers by doing endurance training. But once they change, they don't change back.'' then allot of us are fucked..

Or is that why doubles are so good?.. so you can build mass and then recruit it to fast twitch?.
This is not true, so no worry.

They can be changed back. In fact, it is easier to convert slow-twitch fibers into fast-twitch fibers than converting fast-twitch fibers into slow-twitch fibers.

We've actually known this since the 1960's, following work by A.J. Buller and (nobel-prize winner) John Eccles. They used several methods to demonstrate that slow twitch fibers could be converted to fast-twitch fibers and vice versa. In one method, they took a nerve that was hooked up to one fiber type, then hooked it up to the other fiber type. So, the fibers were controlled by the opposite type of nerve than they were used to. The result was that the fibers would adapt to the nerve signal, and become what the nerve signal demanded. Slow-twitch fibers convert to fast-twitch fibers and fast-twitch fibers convert to slow-twitch fibers, as long as the signal demands it. Here is one example from this line of research:

Buller, A. J., and Lewis, D. M. (1965). Further Observations on Mammalian Cross-Innervated Skeletal Muscle. Journal of Physiology, 178, 343-358. Retrieved from

So, the signal is what's important, and the signal is triggered by the effort you exert. This action of triggering the fibers with a signal is exactly what you're doing when you exert the type of effort you exert--you're sending the nerve signals that tell the fibers what to be. It starts in the brain with your effort and tells the fibers how they need to adapt. Once you send that signal, the fiber then expresses the gene that converts it into the type of fiber that the signal demands. It is part of a process called "epigenesis," which deals with how the expression of genes is not predetermined but rather a reaction to signals.

So, if you demand that a particular muscle performs more explosively, you are triggering the expression of the genes within some of those slower-twitch fibers to convert the fibers to fast-twitch for that explosive activity. And vice-versa.

(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 20, 2011, 2:54 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 20, 2011, 2:38 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 20, 2011, 2:40 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 20, 2011, 2:42 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 20, 2011, 2:43 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 20, 2011, 2:47 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 20, 2011, 2:50 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 20, 2011, 2:52 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 20, 2011, 2:53 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 20, 2011, 2:54 PM

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