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Re: [jacques] training multi pitch:
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billl7
Jun 21, 2011, 12:40 PM
Views: 11855
Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890
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jacques wrote: As I climb multi pitch, free mostly, i like to train for route of 10 to 15 pitches in a day. I already did exercise to climb at my level on small crag and I want to climb fast and to get an "instinct" to find hole while I was on the rock. Any sugestion? Lots of good comments above. I'd also add ... * Get in lots of mileage onsighting pitches outside (not in the gym) that are a little harder than the crux of the route of interest. Really work on reading the unknown moves that are coming up and reading the gear placements. * Choose partners who have a similar goal and be sure they understand the need for efficiency. My partner and I once went up a 12 pitch route with another climbing pair. The leader on that pair was known to me and was leading way below his limit - I knew he would be efficient on lead. But he chose a partner who was much much less experienced and had never led a pitch. Imagine my surprise when coming up behind them and seeing the inexperienced fellow casting off on his very first trad lead. They also had many very long pauses at the belay while they discussed what was coming up for them. It was a long day. Bill L
(This post was edited by billl7 on Jun 21, 2011, 12:42 PM)
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Post edited by billl7
() on Jun 21, 2011, 12:42 PM
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