Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [rtwilli4] Self Coached Climber and Bouldering: Edit Log


Jun 23, 2011, 5:23 PM

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Registered: May 28, 2011
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Re: [rtwilli4] Self Coached Climber and Bouldering
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rtwilli4 wrote:
The SCC is an excellent book and I don't think that a V4/V5 boulderer is even close to a point of not needing more movement training. That's about what I boulder and I still do the exercises and re-read sections of the book on a weekly basis. And now that I think about it I think the book has helped my bouldering more than my route climbing. That is to say, the information has obviously helped me increase the hardest moves I can do, and I'm still learning how to apply it to longer routes.

Moreover, a lot of the content focuses of the physical and biological aspect of training. You will learn a lot about how your body works while you are climbing, and why you feel the way you do before, during and after. With this information you will be able to come up with specific training plans to target your problem areas.

IE, you might be able to do powerful moves well early in the problem, but have a hard time sustaining that power throughout a long sustained problem. Or maybe you're too wasted to climb during the last third of the day, when you're friends are still sending.

9 out of 10... is also one of the best books out there, and it covers a wider range of subjects, but in some ways is more specific than the SCC. I don't think either is better for bouldering (or any climbing) than the other. They are very different, both excellent and compliment each other well. Any climber would benefit from both.
I agree. The concepts in The Self-Coached Climber apply to climbing in general, and that includes bouldering. Topics such as the mechanics of movement and training your brain to attend to what's important while climbing, how and why your body works the way it does while climbing and how to maximize these systems are all topics that can be applied to bouldering just as easily as more sustained climbing. It helps a lot with improving movement and techique, which is what you're primarily challenged with in bouldering. So, I think it would be an excellent book for someone who wants to improve at bouldering.

(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 23, 2011, 5:25 PM)

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Post edited by Learner () on Jun 23, 2011, 5:24 PM
Post edited by Learner () on Jun 23, 2011, 5:25 PM

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