Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [DouglasHunter] ON-SIGHTING: Mental Strategy?: Edit Log




healyje


Jun 29, 2011, 1:35 PM

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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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Re: [DouglasHunter] ON-SIGHTING: Mental Strategy?
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DouglasHunter wrote:
healyje wrote:
What makes you think an onsight attempt is somehow different than any other climb or that it requires a 'strategy' of any sort?

For serious climbers and coaches the obvious answer is that different types of athletic / cognitive challenges require different response from the athlete. On-sights and redpoints are very different types of athletic challenges; climbers can improve their performance by adopting tactics that are best suited to those challenges.

Well,leaving aside irrelevant 'coaches', and as a 'serious' climber, I suppose first I'd have to agree different endeavors require different responses and therein lies the real rub.

A big part of the reason you even bring up that disparity is because, for most climbers these days, what constitutes climbing is so far removed from onsights / 'redpoints' as to almost be a different sport. So sure, if what constitutes 'climbing' 98% of the time you are roped-up is [aerial] bouldering up routes hanging from the end of the rope then yes, absolutely, onsighting / FAs are another beast entirely and one you won't be prepared for. And if you are unaccustomed to wrangling that beast it will definitely require an altogether different mindset as you suggest.

DouglasHunter wrote:
For folks who are less serious about or less interested in how the mind and body respond to the different challenges posed by climbing its not an issue that matters.

Nor is it an issue for people who can't see the forest for the trees, I suppose. The answer the OP needs isn't to do a bunch of mumbo-jumbo when suddenly attempting to do an onsight, but rather to spend a greater percentage of their time on a rope climbing like they are climbing onsight - i.e. not hanging. Instead come down to the ground, last solid rest, or to the anchor and give it another go without hanging (repeat until you get it or are burned out). In the end, if 'onsighting', or climbing like you are, is less less than 5% of what you do when tied into a rope then, hey, guess what? No amount of 'tips' is going to really make all that much of a difference.

DouglasHunter wrote:
For me, I try to learn everything possible about the route before leaving the ground. I read sequences, I look for rests and clipping stances and cruxes,...

Yeah, well only so much of that is available sometimes, particularly on multipitch and especially multipitch FAs.

DouglasHunter wrote:
I also go over pacing, movement initiation and how to deal with ambiguity, fear, or getting pumped faster than I thought I would.

If you need to consciously do that roped in at the base of a climb I should think you're a day late and a dollar short.

DouglasHunter wrote:
Basically my on-sight tactics are based on the fact that the work the climber does on the ground doesn't "cost" anything in terms of aerobic or anaerobic energy production.

And overall of little utility if what you are trying to overcome is a near complete lack of experience climbing without hanging your way up a route.


DouglasHunter wrote:
I have written at length on this topic in a new book coming out at the end of the year.

Hmmm, I'm sure it will be as great as all the other climbing books out there, but if onisghting and FA is what they dream of then reading won't do anything for them if they continue to make 98% of their climbing experience bouldering up routes hanging on the end of a rope.


(This post was edited by healyje on Jun 29, 2011, 1:41 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Jun 29, 2011, 1:37 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Jun 29, 2011, 1:38 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Jun 29, 2011, 1:39 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Jun 29, 2011, 1:41 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Jun 29, 2011, 1:41 PM


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