Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [acorneau] Poll - What do you use?: Edit Log


Jul 2, 2011, 7:41 AM

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Registered: Nov 8, 2009
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Re: [acorneau] Poll - What do you use?
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acorneau wrote:
I usually use the middle and ring fingers, although hold shape and orientation may dictate index/middle fingers instead.

As to your second question: my index finger is bigger circumference-wise, my ring finger is bigger length-wise, so which one is bigger?

It is length. I just wanted to see if their was a pattern.. in that people will use the 2 longest fingers. It appears to line up the bone structure all the way down the arm and allow a more relaxed form. Using the smaller finger of the 2 curls the middle finger lightly more and twists the wrist slightly. I noticed in endurance drill (yes yes 2 finger type) that i got a slight pump when using index/middle (as opposed to middle ring.. ring finger being biggest). I was not sure if it was because i was just use to using the ring and middle finger more or if it is in fact an instinctive use of what is most efficient.

Seems for now, the poll is showing positive signs of it being instinctive rather than a personal choice. Again.. under the circumstance where you can choose between what set you use.

It is also rather strange that lately i find myself climbing easier routes with just with the middle/ring finger in a open hand posistion. Although it sounds silly.. it feels ''right'' and more efficient rather than engaging the other fingers and forcing the angles to engage more muscle/tendons.

I also noticed a huge improvement in open hand endurance if i use 3 fingers and not the pinky. In half and full crimp however, all fingers are used.

(This post was edited by ceebo on Jul 2, 2011, 7:47 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Jul 2, 2011, 7:42 AM
Post edited by ceebo () on Jul 2, 2011, 7:47 AM

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