Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [jdgilberg] 24HHH training: Edit Log


Jul 6, 2011, 6:09 AM

Views: 12001

Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 249

Re: [jdgilberg] 24HHH training
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

unless very special cases occur* it seems that objective #1 is climbing as many routes as possible...then once the number of routes is set, you can start worrying about the difficulty.

to train for that : volume comes first.
Forget circuits, for "volume work" setting them is just a waste of time that can be spent moving on the wall...

At least now, just put in as many moves/week you can.
Never get more than a moderate pump.

(less boring variations than a wall : go to a crag or bouldering venue and try to break your record of "routes/problems in a day". Go multipitching on easy, long stuff, trying to be as fast as possible)

This should give you the basis to endure the long day and recover quickly from the occasional hard route.
Make it the base of your training.

You can add one quick strenght (aka bouldering, with long rests) session per week to make it less boring and to keep a decent max strenght

take an easy week every month. (3 hard ones-one easy).
Drink during training.
Eat carbs 2hrs before and right after each session.

In the last month before the event you can increase the difficulty and back off the volume accordingly.
Drop the bouldering session for a power endurance one (deep pump, long rests)

Full rest in the 3 to 5 days before and carbo loading in the 24 hours before.

During the event : Drink A LOT, have a carb-based snack and a nap (15-20 minutes?) every 2-3 hours.
Triple check knots and belay systems especially as you get tired...

*Some special conditions might make it impossible to climb "as many routes as possible regardless of their grade" or just not that convenient.
-too crowded
-too few lines
-score system rewarding difficulty too much (eg 5.11a being given 10 times the points of 5.10a...)

if that is the case, i'd keep the general flavour of this plan but switch to "less volume and harder routes" earlier...

side effects :
-this kind of training will kill any other objective you might have right now. Especially hard redpoints.

-It could be a very good base for hardcore strenght and power-endurance cycles after the event. And a very good idea if you're still relatively new to climbing.

-you could loose a some weight in the process, and gain it suddenly right after.

-you could get overtrained (sleepy, fatigued, depressed state) or get an overuse injury, especially if you don't keep the difficulty low during the "volume" phase.

(This post was edited by ghisino on Jul 6, 2011, 6:10 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ghisino () on Jul 6, 2011, 6:10 AM

Search for (options)

Log In:

Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?