Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [tequilaboom] Trad Belay Anchor: Edit Log




Partner cracklover


Jul 7, 2011, 12:52 PM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Re: [tequilaboom] Trad Belay Anchor
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SBA is right, but I'll go one step further. I pretty much never place an upward piece. If possible, I'll include in the anchor a cam placement that should work for an upward pull.

More important than an upward pull piece is having your anchor high. If your gear is 5 feet above your hips, then you have to be scraped ten feet up the wall before your rope will start to pull on the anchor.

Edited to add a link - See page 15: http://www.chauvinguides.com/Anchoring.PDF

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Jul 7, 2011, 12:56 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by cracklover () on Jul 7, 2011, 12:56 PM
Post edited by cracklover () on Jul 7, 2011, 12:56 PM


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