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Climbing Disciplines:
Trad Climbing:
Re: [tequilaboom] Trad Belay Anchor:
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cracklover
Jul 7, 2011, 12:52 PM
Views: 3707
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 9675
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SBA is right, but I'll go one step further. I pretty much never place an upward piece. If possible, I'll include in the anchor a cam placement that should work for an upward pull.
More important than an upward pull piece is having your anchor high. If your gear is 5 feet above your hips, then you have to be scraped ten feet up the wall before your rope will start to pull on the anchor.
Edited to add a link - See page 15: http://www.chauvinguides.com/Anchoring.PDF
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Jul 7, 2011, 12:56 PM)
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Post edited by cracklover
() on Jul 7, 2011, 12:56 PM
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Post edited by cracklover
() on Jul 7, 2011, 12:56 PM
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