Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [drector] Death at Rumbling Bald: Edit Log




socalclimber


Jul 7, 2011, 3:41 PM

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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2433

Re: [drector] Death at Rumbling Bald
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drector wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
drector wrote:
patto wrote:
Climbers need to be made aware about the frequency of this accident type and be ultra cautious when rapping

But how do you make climbers aware? I don't tend to tell other climbers about how they might die unless I'm there when it is about to happen.

Dave

Complacency kills. That's the root cause of all these belay/rap style accidents that are occurring on a nearly monthly basis.

That is absolutely true. You'd think leading a route would be the lethal part, but the dangers are so immediate that the climber is constantly engauged in midigating them and is more successful in doing so as a result. Unfortunately rapping is the "easy" part where we tend to relax because the dangers aren't in our face like they are while leading.

Unfortunately I don't see an end to this. Climbers these days just are not taking the time to learn the skills necessary to stay alive in the long run. We are seeing this especially with belay accidents. When I first started climbing it was almost unheard of that a belayer decked their partner. Rap accidents happened, but not nearly at this level.

People just are not willing to take the time required to dial themselves in and pay attention.

I've said it a hundred times on this site. KNOW WHERE YOUR ENDS ARE. Take your time.

When you learn to fly an airplane, you rely on an instructor in the plane, an instructor in ground school, and an examiner, all to take the time to teach you the skills necessary to stay alive. In climbing, the climber is somehow required to learn those skills while all the time not having enough of them to know which ones are needed.

In other words, the teacher is responsible because the student has no way of knowing if they have or do not have the skills they need to stay alive.

I don't know how to accomplish a change in teaching habits in a sport where many climbers are self-taught and many are taught by others who are self-taught and are probably also missing some much needed skill set.

So how does a climber take the time to learn the skills necessary to stay alive when they don't have those skills laid out clearly for them to start with? I'm not flaming. I'm interested in a real discussion about who it is that is dropping the ball in this teaching situation.

Dave

This is a great question. I'll get back to this with my views tonight when I get home from work.

[EDIT]

This is 100% relevant to the discussion of this accident.


(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jul 7, 2011, 3:47 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by socalclimber () on Jul 7, 2011, 3:47 PM


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