Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [Sheldon] Projecting a Sport Climb - TR or on Lead: Edit Log




healyje


Jul 8, 2011, 9:57 AM

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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4199

Re: [Sheldon] Projecting a Sport Climb - TR or on Lead
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Sheldon wrote:
healyje wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
Make sure you are not using top roping as a crutch.

Pretty funny, so people are now headpointing sport climbs?

Weren't you the best toproper in the world in the 70's?

We were LNT fanatics and at one bluff we only TR'd. It was overhangs and roofs so we also never hung on a rope, ever (not that you really could on goldline as it was so stretchy).

From my perspective, on single pitch climbs, if it's really 'all about the movement', then why bother with the faux clips? There's nothing particularly technical or bold clipping a hanger - especially after hanging your way up the thing ad nausem to sort it all out and work up the courage to lead it. We did plenty of stout trad leads during the same period as well - best of both worlds and a few of those TR roofs could still kill you.

My old partner and I back at that bluff at a thirty year reunion a few years back - same as it ever was (well, maybe a better rope)...




(This post was edited by healyje on Jul 8, 2011, 10:09 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 8, 2011, 9:58 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 8, 2011, 9:58 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 8, 2011, 10:07 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 8, 2011, 10:08 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 8, 2011, 10:08 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 8, 2011, 10:09 AM


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