Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [celticelement] Partial Anchor Failure: Edit Log




rescueman


Jul 8, 2011, 10:10 AM

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Registered: Mar 1, 2004
Posts: 439

Re: [celticelement] Partial Anchor Failure
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celticelement wrote:
And extension will never be an issue when all the pieces hold.

Extension is never an issue if we use what the climbing guides in the Northeast US have long been advocating: a cordellete tied in a fixed, focused, pre-equalized anchor system.

Tests have demonstrated that even the sliding X experiences enough friction between 'biners and slings to prevent equalization at the speed of energy dissipation at the anchor.

So, if we want a load-sharing anchor system with no extension, the choice is obvious. A fixed, focused multi-point anchor is the only kind used in rescue scenarios, when lives are literally on the line. Climbers would do well to follow suit.

Edited to add: And I use only nylon cordage and slings, which have much more forgiving qualities than any of the high-strength cords or webbing, always preferring cordage to slings for any but the shortest lengths because of its better knotting and energy-absorbing qualities.


(This post was edited by rescueman on Jul 8, 2011, 10:13 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by rescueman () on Jul 8, 2011, 10:11 AM
Post edited by rescueman () on Jul 8, 2011, 10:13 AM


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