Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [cracklover] Trad Belay Anchor: Edit Log




sbaclimber


Jul 8, 2011, 10:26 AM

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Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 3091

Re: [cracklover] Trad Belay Anchor
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cracklover wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
sbaclimber wrote:
Although most of the info seems to be good (I didn't read all of it), the "Bad Angle" shown in Pic 19 (page 16) of the ^^ that PDF is a bit far fetched...
In order for it to be a true "bad angle", the force of catching the fall would have to pull the belayer directly out away from the vertical wall. I can only see this happening directly under a roof, and where the first pro is somewhere in or beyond the roof.

I agree, there is nothing wrong with the way the anchor was arranged in that picture.

Hmm... consider the situation if you're standing on a two foot wide belay ledge and the leader FF2s onto your harness. I think this could put tremendous force onto the anchor
Of course. That is essentially my roof example in reverse (or, turned on its head?).
In this case, notapplicable's technique of opposing only one piece in the anchor, or simply giving the "upward pull" piece a bit more slack, might be possible solutions...

On another note...
I don't know about you, but I personally try like the devil to avoid taking any FF2s directly onto my harness!Shocked
Having caught a rather hard fall while belaying my second off my harness from above, which due to an inadequately tightened anchor (total brainfart on my part Blush) pulled me headfirst off the ledge I was belaying from (which SUUUUUUUUUCKED!), I am constantly reminded to:
a) when belaying up a second off my harness (which I try to avoid, if possible), make sure the anchor is short and tight enough to keep me where I am, in case of a fall!
...and...
b) avoid at all costs catching a leader fall off my harness! Until the leader has clipped his/her first *good* pro, I generally have them redirected through the powerpoint. (obviously, there are occasional exceptions)


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jul 8, 2011, 10:41 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by sbaclimber () on Jul 8, 2011, 10:26 AM
Post edited by sbaclimber () on Jul 8, 2011, 10:27 AM
Post edited by sbaclimber () on Jul 8, 2011, 10:29 AM
Post edited by sbaclimber () on Jul 8, 2011, 10:30 AM
Post edited by sbaclimber () on Jul 8, 2011, 10:41 AM


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