In reply to:
this woman is entrusting her ankles and life to the friction of your ass-fat...
That's not a woman, and yes, we and everyone else in SoIll back then 'entrusted' each other for thousands of goes each with no more belay than that on 80ft lines, most of them overhanging. No one was ever dropped - ever.
With a 1" webbing or end-of-the-rope harness and adding a non-locking biner to the side going to the leader we also did no shortage of hard local and Eldo multipitch catching a lot of long and hard leader falls just that way in the process.
And to be honest, on a hard, multipitch lead, I'd still take him on a hip belay over most folks with an atc or grigri. It's like any other form of belaying - it's all about competency - you either are or you aren't.
i have encountered a chuffer out of my league. i take my hat off and bow before you oh chief-of-chuffers.
