Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [jt512] Projecting a Sport Climb - TR or on Lead: Edit Log




healyje


Jul 13, 2011, 9:05 PM

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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4196

Re: [jt512] Projecting a Sport Climb - TR or on Lead
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jt512 wrote:
healyje wrote:
Yeah, I know the idea of a TR you wouldn't be willing to tie into is a tough one.

We bolt those routes. X-rated TRs are stupid.

The last time I saw some one try it I happened to roll through the area on a trip and swung by for old times sake. As I was getting out of the car I looked over, and while the ground-level is obscured, I could see a broken-off tree trunk I didn't remember being there waving about unnaturally. On walking over it was a couple of guys who had hauled a 23 ft log over to the route, stood it on end, and one guy shinnied up it while the other guy tried to steady it. The guy doing the pole dance was attempting to place a piece at the crux. Unfortunately once he got to the top his buddy couldn't really steady the log very well. He did try to place the piece on a couple of the passes but they both had to abandon ship pretty quick before the deed was done. Hadn't seen anything like it since old Keystone Cop reels.

Yeah, today it would be bolted in a heartbeat if it weren't protected, it would also be covered with chalk destroying the puzzle aspects of the line (it's the third photo in the pics in my profile). But in that time in the mid-70's we were LNT freaks and wouldn't have dreamed of bolting anything. You wanted to do a line like that, you stepped up and dealt with it - we all took one fall off the crux and one fall was all you needed to motivate you to get past it to where the TR kicked in the next time.

I did relent on that dogma about four years ago and placed the only protection bolt I've ever installed (in lieu of a couple of #2 Lowe Balls) on a route named 'Hollow Victory' in honor of that act and the fact the whole wall the climb is on is somewhat of a hollow layer.


(This post was edited by healyje on Jul 13, 2011, 11:02 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 13, 2011, 9:07 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 13, 2011, 9:08 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 13, 2011, 9:09 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 13, 2011, 9:10 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 13, 2011, 11:02 PM


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