Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Mock Comps for onsight training and fun.: Edit Log


Jul 25, 2011, 8:24 AM

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Registered: Mar 11, 2011
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Mock Comps for onsight training and fun.
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Recently, I competed in a bouldering competition and have been watching all the world cup bouldering events which you can watch at

My comp rules we're as follows:

6- boulder problems. 5 minutes to climb each problem with no time to look at it ahead of climbing. 5 minute rests inbetween. You get 25 exra points for a flash and you get deducted 5 points per attempt without success. Each hold has a certain point value, each problem is worth around 1k points total.

After watching some of the best boulderers in the world falling off v6's and v7's (my friends a routesetter and verified these ratings on some of the problems with one of the world cup routesetters) I was convinced that the biggest, fastest, comp gains would be in practicing onsighting. I thought, why not do mock comps? Practice with the same rules under the same conditions?

Fortunately, we have 4 different gyms in my area, so I asked my brother to help me. We went to any gym, not my home gym, since I know the problems, and I asked my brother to pick 6 v7/v8s that weren't very crimpy and on different walls, some vertical, some very steep etc. Some long, some short, etc. I had him brush the holds and told him not to give me any beta etc. I gave him my phone and used the stopwatch feature and told him to give me 5 minutes to try each problem with a 5 minute rest in between.

It's been a couple months since that comp and ever since I've been using this mock comp as a way to challenge myself in a different way. I believe it's helped alot with my onsighting ability in boulders and routes, when you only have 5 minutes, you've got to make your tries count! It's very fun also and I highly recommend it as a new way to train thats different and very mental. The pressure helps you push yourself and the creativity involved is hard and fast!

Anyways, give it a try a couple times and let me know what you think.

Make the problems around 3 grades lower than your absolute limit. 6 boulder problems total. You should be able to send about half of them within the 5 minutes. Adjust difficulty based on this.

It's amazing how worked you can get in just one hour when your pushing yourself to the limit on 6 different boulders!

Of course, make sure and warm up well beforehand.

(This post was edited by flesh on Jul 25, 2011, 8:42 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by flesh () on Jul 25, 2011, 8:30 AM
Post edited by flesh () on Jul 25, 2011, 8:42 AM

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