Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [petsfed] Smooth moves: Edit Log


Aug 6, 2011, 5:41 AM

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Registered: Nov 8, 2009
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Re: [petsfed] Smooth moves
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petsfed wrote:
I even explained how they are similar. I think you stopped reading just before the colon (:).

Watch an experienced climber move their feet. Typically, unless the holds require otherwise, they'll sag down and out, getting their hips away from the wall, then they'll place their feet, then they'll move their hips close to the wall again. Why? Because that way they know that they're putting their feet on the best holds available.

All this stay-close garbage will teach people is to put their feet on the first thing they don't immediately slip off of. Learn to put your feet where you mean to, then move your hips close to the wall to stand up on them, then get your hips away from the wall again so you can see where you need to move next.

Training technique involves more than just doing an exercise. You have to recognize what it is trying to teach you.

You do not have to sag out to see a foot hold. The only time i see that acceptable is in a high step or a smear.. but both cases have nothing to do with the fact that you could or could not see the hold. I hope i don't have to explain why?.

In every other case it is better to keep hips in and manipulate the torso to get view on the rock, rather than sagging out. The moment your ass is off the wall more than 6 inches you have put 30% (maybe more) extra body weight onto your fingers. That % increases with every inch. If that can be avoided, mostly it can.. then why use such a inefficient technique?. I know why.. because its not hard to learn.. and it does the trick. Doesn't make it right.

Oh and ofc, in dynamic initiation the hips or other parts of the body will obviously have to come off momentarily.

(This post was edited by ceebo on Aug 6, 2011, 5:47 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Aug 6, 2011, 5:42 AM
Post edited by ceebo () on Aug 6, 2011, 5:47 AM

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