Aug 8, 2011, 8:23 AM
Registered: Mar 8, 2005
The key to being smooth is a lot of climbing when you are a little tired. When you are fresh, if your a male, you can rely on your strength and just pull hard to execute a move. Once you are tired, you have to rely more on technique as your strength is limited. Bouldering at 60-70% of your limit when tired can help. But, remember you want to be on problems you are completing when tired. If you are so tired that you are falling, go down a grade or two. Once your technique improves, it will help you climb problems at your limit when you are fresh.
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Hope this helps.
(This post was edited by younggun on Aug 8, 2011, 8:24 AM)